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Excursions
The western line 
A trip ot west

A trip out west

Let’s go a trip from Lisbon to Figueira da Foz, round the hills, through the forests and across the rice paddies, not forgetting the medieval walled town of Óbidos and Caldas da Rainha.


Leiria Pine Forest

Leiria castle

Caldas da Rainha station

Óbidos station

Óbidos station

Countryside north of Lisbon

Palácio da Pena

The original idea of the Western Line was to link Lisbon to Figueira da Foz, via Torres Vedras and Caldas da Rainha. The countryside and the service itself have changed a lot since 1888, when the line was opened. The line now begins in Meleças/Mira-Sintra station near Cacém, while the Lisbon-Cacém stretch is considered to be part of the Sinra Line. There are, nevertheless, frequent trains running out of Lisbon-Oriente, Campolide and Roma-Areeiro.

The Western line runs for about 200 km up to Figueira, though the two halves of the journey, with Caldas da Rainha in the middle, are quite different from each other. Strangely enough, although the first part of the journey through the area is around the modern capital of Lisbon, the design and feeling of the stations is decidedly 19th century. You just have to look at the iron porches protecting the platforms, the characteristic two-storey station buildings and the writing on the station name plates to see into the past.

You are now deep in glazed tile country, at least until you reach Caldas. The stations are decorated in style. First, Mafra with tiles designed by Carlos Mourinho, Gomes and Salvador in 1934. Then, Outeiro where there is a rather curious depiction of the 1808 battle between the French on one side and the English and Portuguese on the other drawn by J. Oliveira, who also created the famous tile panels for Pinhão station on the Douro Line. Bombarral is covered with the obligatory images of wine-making made by Jorge Pinto in 1930. Óbidos station shows some aspects of the World-heritage town made by J. Victória Pereira in 1943, while Caldas da Rainha was decorated by Carlos Aleluia in 1924.

 

The first part of the journey up to Torres Vedras twists and turns through some beautiful scenery. The train tries to stay on as flat a line as possible while making its way through the labyrinth of hills that halted the 3rd French Invasion of 1810 when they were fortified. Looking out the windows to the left on the longer bends we can glimpse the Castelo dos Mouros and Palácio da Pena from different angles. The Windows on the other side of the train look out over the escalvada Montejunto hills.

The journey becomes more interesting after Torres and the approach to Óbidos is one of the most attractive points on the whole journey. From there on the horizons open up and the line levels off. This lack up ups and downs becomes more noticeable north of Marinha Grande, when we start on our way through the hundred-year-old Leiria pine forest. The line goes as straight as an arrow through the pines with the sandy ground that is so loose that it has often been driven into dunes that the old trees hold in place.

Special attention should be given on the second part of the journey to the lovely Valado-Nazaré-Alcobaça station that has also been decorated with glazd tiles. The work, once again was conducted by J. Oliveira in 1929. He is in fact one of the most famous names connected with railway glazed tiles. The Nazaré sanctuary, Alcobaça monastry and the Lourinhã-Outeiro road are just a few of the monuments and places represented in the panels.

 

Leiria station, where you can get a good view of the elegant castle, is a special case in terms of decoration since the glazed tiles that were produced in 1935 were made by a well known trio: Ernesto Korrodi (the Swiss architect that is closely connected to the town), Leopoldo Battistini (who also decorated the Alentejo stations of Cabeço de Vide and Fronteira) and Luís Fernandes.

After leaving the Leiria pine forest we start to get into the meadows alongside the Mondego tributaries. There is an important fork in the line at Lares where the right hand branches off to Alfarelos linking Figueira da Foz to Coimbra. This stretch of line was opened in 1891 and joined the Northern and Western Lines which were the two most important railways lines of the time together.

Right next and with the end of the journey almost in sight, there is another high point of the journey: the crossing of the long metal bridge over the Mondego. Figueira station looks like it was designed more to serve the port than the town. Despite being some way from the middle of town, it is quite easy to get to the town centre and the promenade on foot.

 

Where to eat and to stay

Restaurante Sabores d’Italia
Rua Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco, 17
2500-198 Caldas da Rainha
Telef: (+351) 262 845 600 
Fax (+351) 262 845 599
saboresditalia@hotmail.com
High quality Italian cuisine made with original ingredients and excellent presentation.

Restaurante A Ilustre Casa de Ramiro
Rua Porta do Vale
2510-084 Óbidos
Telef: (+351) 262 959 194
Fax: (+351) 262 959 282
Duck rice is the great speciality of this restaurant dedicated to traditional cookery.

.

Pousada do Castelo
Castelo de Óbidos - Paço Real - Apartado 18
2510-999 ÓBIDOS
Telef: (+351) 262 955 080 
Fax (+351) 262 959 148
www.pousadas.pt
guest@pousadas.pt

Hotel Mercure Figueira da Foz
Avenida 25 de Abril, 22
3080-086 FIGUEIRA DA FOZ
Telef: (+351) 233 403 900
Fax (+351) 233 403 901 
www.accorhotels.com
h1921@accor.com

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